Category - Q&A

Q&A: Should I discourage rough puppy play?

The Art Of Dog TrainingWe have a 6 month old lab mix and a 3 month old terrier mix (both rescue puppies). They both really want to play, but but the older lab pup gets way too rough and hurts the little one (I’m quite sure he’s not teeing to hurt her, he just plays rougher than she can take). How do we get him to play a little less aggressively workout discouraging play between them all together? ~Barbara

You do not need to separate your puppies permanently to keep them safe. It is important for puppies to be able to interact and learn from each other as a part of their socialization. This is how they learn to “speak dog” and respect each other, making them safe to be around other dogs in the future.

The older, larger dog can be worked with on his energy levels before allowing play between the two of them. For example, you can take him on a walk on his own or play ball with him before allowing the two to play together. Helping him use up some of his energy will help him interact with the smaller puppy in a less excitable way.

Another option is to take part in puppy socialization classes at your local kennel club or dog obedience school. Dogs of the appropriate sizes are allowed to play and romp and they will naturally learn what is and is not okay while playing together. This can help the larger puppy to learn his strength and self control while playing with another dog.

Meanwhile, I am including a training exercise to teach your dogs a positive interrupter noise. The purpose of this noise is to help your dogs immediately stop whatever they are doing, no matter how much fun they are having, and give their full attention to you. It will help to redirect their attention if play gets too rough and you need to get them to stop without anything negative attached to it.

Positive Interrupter Noise

When you make this noise, once it has been trained with your dogs, they will be able to stop whatever they’re doing and pay attention to you. This could be anything from an unwanted behavior to rough play that you need to interrupt, and you can do it simply by using a noise that will peak their interest.

You can use a kissy noise, a whistle, or even a certain word. Just remember that whatever you do use, it should not be used for any other purpose than as an interrupter noise.

Teach each dog one on one instead of working them together. Start with a high value reward, like real meat or cheese and sit at their level. Make your sound, and when they give you eye contact, give them the treat. Don’t give the treat immediately, wait for the eye contact! You can do this for about 5 minutes or so and take a break. You can do multiple training sessions in a day, but keep each session short and fun!

After your first few sessions, begin adding this interrupter noise into your daily lives. Your puppy could be just relaxing in his bed or sniffing around outside. Use the noise and when he comes to you and gives you eye contact, give him a treat!

As your sessions progress, ask for longer eye contact. Go from 1 second to 5, then to 10 and all the way up to 30 seconds. However, if your puppy gets bored and frustrated, you have moved too far too soon, and it’s time to dial the time back a bit.

I hope this helps you and your pups learn to play safely together! If you have any questions, feel free to message me!

Q&A: How do I train my dog to go through a doggie door?

Hello, My Lucy is a 5 year old border collie. She is very well trained. How do I train her to go through a doggie door? ~Carley

A doggy door, while convenient for us humans, can be pretty alien to dogs. They need to learn not only how it works but how to be confident about using it. Once you get started in the training process, it can become quite easy for the dog to catch on. You have to start simply to set her up for success and she will develop the use of it as a reliable behavior.

Start by removing the flap. Either tape it open or take it off completely. It helps to have another person, but you can do this alone if you need to. Use small, easily eaten treats that Lucy loves. This can be small bits of cheese, pieces of hot dogs, or her favorite treat.

With Lucy on the inside, and the doggy door flap open, ask a friend to stand on the outside of the door. Make sure you both have a handful of treats. The person outside should stand maybe a foot away from the door, and attempt to call Lucy through. If she is hesitant, your helper can lure her through using a treat in a closed fist. When she gets her first paw through the door, let her have the treat. This is helping her gain confidence in the door and associating it with positive emotions because of being rewarded.

As Lucy becomes more comfortable stepping 1 or 2 paws through the door, increase the difficulty by asking her to step half her body through. The moment she does it, praise and reward with a treat! She might walk straight through after, or pull backwards. If she walks on through, give her a treat and begin working with her coming inside the same way, starting with just 1 or 2 paws going through. If she pulls backwards, just ask her to come halfway through again before getting a reward.

Keep these sessions under 5 to 10 minutes long and always end it on a positive note. It can be a surprise “jackpot” of a few treats or even play. You can, however, have up to 4 or even 5 sessions in a day if you have the time and she does not grow bored.

In the next session, you will start with asking her to come halfway through the door, but after that first reward ask her to continue to walk on through. Reward her with a jackpot of treats when she does, and reverse it by asking her to go through the door again to go back inside. As a border collie, Lucy will most likely catch on to this very quickly, and you will be able to add in the door flap.

When you add in the door flap, using the lure technique may work best at first. With Lucy on the inside, place your hand in a fist with a treat inside. Put it just inside the flap so she will be able to see and smell it. Attempt to lure her to step her first 2 feet and head through the flap this way. When she does, remember that the flap resting on her may feel weird and scary to her. She may shy away and back up. Be patient and just try again unless you succeed.

Just as before, once she is comfortable with stepping through with just her front feet, ask her to walk halfway through the door. When she does, make a big deal out of it with praise as well as treats. She’ll learn this is a great thing to have the flap touching her!

She may step through or back out. If she steps on through the door, praise her some more, and attempt to get her to go through the door again to go back inside using the same hand-in-the-door technique.

In your next session, start with asking her to come through the door without putting your hand through at all. When she does, make a huge fuss as if she just did the best thing ever. Practice with it many times. Incorporate play by tossing a ball or favorite toy through the door and she must go through to fetch it. When going for walks, ask her to stay inside til you are out the door and ask her to come through the doggy door to get her leash on. Incorporating these little things will continue her love for using the doggy door and she will develop a habit of using it on her own to go outside.

Q&A: Why does my dog pee when I leaver her?

I have a 9 mo old GSD that wets her bed every time I leave her alone. Every Sunday before I leave for church, I put her in her bed with a hollowed out bone with peanut butter in it. When I return about 2 hrs later her bed is soaking wet. She is extremely excited to see me.

The weird thing is the beginning of May I went out of town for a week while the wife stayed home. The dog didn’t have any issues. Last week we had the dog out with us. My wife brought her home, put her in her bed and left. When we got back several hours later, the bed was dry.

If you can figure this out and help it would relieve a great burden. I feel confined to the house knowing I’ll have a wet mess to clean up when I return. It’s either that or take her with me. And that’s a whole new issue. Trying to get out of my truck w/o her jumping out too. Thanks for your help. ~Bob

Hello Bob; I believe I can help!

First off, it’s natural for dogs to urinate a little during moments of excitement or submission. From what you are telling me, it sounds very much like this is the case. Your GSD puppy might be showing signs of separation anxiety when you leave, the urination supporting this belief. Since you are with her all of the time, she hasn’t had much of an opportunity to grow accustomed to being left alone, and becomes nervous when you do leave.

Separation Anxiety

The urinating behavior is simply a symptom of your overall problem, Mina’s anxiety. Forget about the urinating for now; it’s this anxious behavior you want to deal with. Once Mina’s anxiety is under control, her urinating problem should follow!

It sounds like Mina’s separation anxiety orients around your absences, having little to do with your wife. Dealing with separation anxiety requires slow and consistent work. Begin by leaving Mina alone for short periods, perhaps a few minutes at a time, while you are home. It doesn’t matter if you crate her or simply close her off in another room, as long as the two of you are separated. Do this multiple times a day, for short duration every time.

Mina needs to learn that you aren’t leaving her alone for good, and will always return in time. Teach her there is absolutely nothing to worry about! Gradually begin lengthening these separations (ex. 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, and so on). Only begin to increase the separation periods once you’re confident she has adjusted to the current time frames you’re working with.

No emotion!

Act completely normal, like absolutely nothing out of the ordinary happened at all, once you meet her again after a separation or before you isolate her. Don’t show any signs of excitement or emotion. To her, the bone with peanut butter might signify a lengthy absence on your part, so you might want to consider no longer offering a bone when you leave- at least until the anxiety is under control.

Correcting this behavior will take time, happening gradually, and shouldn’t be rushed. I hope this helps you two!

Jumping out of Truck:
This will be much simpler to fix. If I was in your situation, I would simply train Mina to ‘sit’ and ‘stay’ until I’m ready to help her down. (:

Q&A: How to stop my dog being aggressive when on a leash?

How to collar train a puppy or dogMy dog is about a year old and is around 40 lbs. She goes to daycare Monday thru Friday and does well there, but sometimes I think she feels the need to defend herself or assert that I’m her owner when I come to pick her up. Other dogs will growl and nip at her and she does it back (sometimes in defense of another dog doing it first, or she does it when other dog gets to close to her face). She’s fine at dog parks and being around dogs when she’s off leash. But when we’re on a walk on a leash and another dog comes and walks next us that’s on a leash, that dog can’t greet her or she will growl and try to bite. I’m assuming she feels the need to defend herself since she’s on a leash and can’t run if she feels uncomfortable. The other dog is usually excited and gets right up to her face and this causes her to react in this negative way. However, it’s getting to the point where I have to shorten the leash, because she will growl if the get a foot or two away. Is there any way I can get her to be friendly to other dogs on a leash or is this just something I have to deal with by never meeting another dog in a leash on walks? ~Abigail 

Dear Abigail,
There are many dogs that doesn’t like when others jump around their faces, there’s nothing wrong with that. However, you can desensitize your pup to be a little less reactive, but I still recommend you to ask the owner of the other dogs to keep their pup calm, as your dog is a bit sensitive/reactive, and in training.

Let’s start with the leash problem: have a bunch of treats on you while walking on the leash. When you see a dog coming towards you, ask your dog to sit and look at you. Give her a treat, and try to maintain her attention on you with talking nicely and giving her treats. At the same time, ask the owner of the other dog to keep the dog close to them to avoid any incident. If you feel like you can’t keep up your dog’s attention, walk away from the situation. She’ll get better day by day, the other dogs can come closer and closer. When you are confident in yourself and your dog, you can do this without making her sit, and keeping her eyes on you while walking past the other dog. Just never forget the treats… And if you lose your confidence, always walk out of the situation. Every negative experience can throw back the progress.

About the doggy daycare: you said she nips BACK. Why can other dogs nip at her at a doggy daycare? The professionals at the doggy daycare shouldn’t let it happen. When someone comes to pick their dog up, the excitement rises incredibly high, so the environment should be controlled enough to avoid accidents. When your dog greets you, other dogs shouldn’t go near her face. Of course it’s not good that she nips and growls, but you can’t stop it from a minute to another, so there should be someone to control the other dog in this situation, not to go too close to her, while you are training on desensitization.

What you wrote suggests that the cause of this “protecting” behavior is some sort of insecurity. Desensitization can solve a lot, but on the other hand, she has to feel that you are absolutely in control, and able to protect her from anything. I recommend you to get into some dog sport where you have to work together.

Q&A: How to stop my Rottweiler from pulling the leash?

happy-dogI rescued an adult Rottweiler and I can’t leash train him because he’s stronger than me. I’ve tried to stop and give him a treat when he behaves, but he’s very excited and couldn’t care less about them. He ends up walking and drags me to where he want to go. Nothing has worked to counter the bad behavior. I know I need to walk him everyday and eventually he’d learn. But I don’t because I can’t control him. Any suggestions? ~Ann

Sometimes dogs are not food-motivated, especially when they are excited. Treats are great as reinforcement of wanted behaviors, but when your dog is not interested, their effectiveness is non-existent.

Ideally, the size of your dog should not determine the extent of control you have over him. There are tools you can use that will increase your ability to influence your dog’s behavior by at least 50% right away. I’ll go into those in a minute.

First though, it is important that your dog is getting enough exercise, especially if he is a young, exuberant adult. He needs to run, and if this is not allowed to him, he will try to work off all that energy on your walks. That is a problem.

Second, it is important with any size dog to get him into obedience training so he can learn basic commands, like Come, Sit, Stay, Leave It, Heel and so on, and to respect you when you ask them.

You will find he will listen to you better when you use
1) a proper walking harness, and
2) a head collar or Halti-type harness.

We do not ever recommend pain-causing equipment such as prong collars or shock collars because these can cause more deeply-seated emotional issues for your dog in the longer term, and – we don’t want to cause pain to our beloved friends.

Find an ‘anti-pulling’ harness where the leash attaches to a clip on the chest, not the back (example: Easy Walk Harness). This will interfere with his ability to run straight forward. Next, use a Halti or Gentle Leader on his head, making sure it is not pulled too tightly and that you can slip two fingers under the straps. Just wearing one of these tones many dogs down immediately because the world looks different to them. If you need more control, use a second leash and attach it to the Halti, but do not use force by pulling hard on it on it – this can damage his neck. Use it to redirect him only.

With these methods you should find that before too long, your walks are a lot more enjoyable – for both of you!

Another great resource is to work with a Tellington TTouch Practitioner, or get yourself a copy of the book “Getting in TTouch With Your Dog”. They have very effective techniques to stop leash pulling.

Q&A: How do I stop my dog from peeing in the house?

I have a 9-month-old corgi (Yuki) and she was well-potty trained when she was staying with my boyfriend. She pees and poops in a designated area and pees on command every time. She rarely goes out as she’s still a puppy so she mostly pees indoors. Recently, she has come to stay with me and my parents love her so much that they bring her to potty outside at least twice a day. Initially she would pee on command on the pee tray but gradually she has stopped listening to me. She would still pee at home but she wouldn’t pee in the pee tray anymore. She will either pee in her playpen or in the kitchen when nobody is looking. How can I re-train her to pee on the pee tray again? I want to maintain the habit that she poops outside but I also want her to know that if she ever feels the need to pee/poop, she still can do so at home but only on the pee tray. I have tried not bringing her out so that she will pee at home but she just held her pee till we bring her out in the night. Help! What should I do?~Jane

Hello Jane and Yuki! I am pretty sure I can help you here.

You must have trained Yuki by offering some sort of incentive for eliminating in the designated areas. Yuki eventually learned ‘If I relieve myself here, it makes my owner happy, or I will get something. If I go somewhere else outside of the designated area, I won’t be rewarded or my owner will become upset/won’t be happy.’ Hence, your Corgi would go out of her way for what she perceived as a reward.

This regular routine changed when she moved. Her environment changed. Her human ‘pack’ family members even changed. Many dogs develop anxiety due to drastic changes like this; you’re actually lucky this is the only issue!

Peeing in the playpen or kitchen: Your main problem is your dog peeing inside. You’ll have to go through potty training again, teaching her she is supposed to eliminate outside or in your ‘pee tray’, not anywhere she feels like. Don’t scold or chastise her, but keep constant supervision. This normally requires leashing your pup by your (or your parents) side so you are able to catch accidents 100% of the time, and running her outside every single time she begins to go indoors.

Set a regular, consistent bathroom schedule, and don’t alter it. When you can’t offer direct supervision, crate Yuki. Dogs will prefer not to eliminate in close confines or where they sleep. Yuki should probably begin sleeping in her crate during this potty training process.

If you want her to pee on the pee tray, you’re going to need to offer her incentive again; reward her when she does. Whenever she is about to pee, carry her directly to the pee tray. You can’t miss mistakes here, which will require her to be leashed by your side at all times.

Dogs will also prefer to eliminate in designated areas because they smell familiar. Even thorough cleanings don’t always mask the scent; change the bedding if possible.

To sum:
Offer Constant supervision
Reward desired behavior
Don’t reward mistakes, and don’t scold excessively either
Catch mistakes 100% of the time, correct by moving to desired location
Crate when you can’t have Yuki leashed by your side (if possible).
Set regular bathroom schedule; don’t deviate
Follow this advice, and I can all but guarantee your problem will resolve itself in time. With today’s busy schedules, I understand how it might seem difficult to offer constant supervision though.

Q&A: Why will my dog only potty inside?

husky-puppyBuffy was doing great at our previous home in terms of going potty outside. She had a fenced in backyard and went without any issues. She had accidents inside the house, but they were always close to the door to the backyard. We had to relocate to a downtown apartment last week. She walks on her leash 3 times a day and refuses to go potty outside. There is a dog park near our apartment we take her to on these walks where she can run free, and she still refuses to go there! She will only go to the bathroom inside our apartment. She goes on walks with her older dog sister Bella. We have reinforced pottying outside by giving Bella treats each time she goes outside, and we make sure to do this so Buffy can see Bella getting the treats as reward for pottying. We are at our wits’ end! Spanking, yelling, saying no, walks, and sitting at the dog park for 30 to 45 minutes are all NOT working!~Caroline

Potty training can be a difficult task, especially with smaller dog breeds – somehow it takes more time for smaller dogs. For the owner of Buffy I would recommend to take a step back and basically forget how good Buffy was in her previous home. Use a potty pad, but do the regular 3 times a day walks, just like the potty pad wasn’t there. Put the pad relatively close to the door, easily reachable for Buffy, and make sure she feels safe. At first, if an accident happens anywhere else than the pad, put it on the pad and leave it there for half an hour before changing the pad – but clean the place where the accident was immediately.

NEVER shout and get angry with the pup when accidents happen.

Pottying is a time when the dog is very vulnerable. She is there, doing her thing, and couldn’t immediately run away if there were danger. That’s why many dogs look in their owners eyes when pooping. To make sure they are safe. It may be ridiculous to us, but it is serious to them. Give her time to get used to the new place, the new smells, the new objects, the sounds of traffic, meeting other dogs and stuff like that. Do everything you can to make sure that only good things happen on walks. If she is good with the potty pad, you can take one with you on walks, because it is familiar to her, and she may do her thing on that outside (some people won’t understand, but it’s about you and the pup, not them).

The other thing is timing. Always go on walks around 20-30 minutes after eating. On this walk, Buffy shouldn’t run and jump, because it can mess up her digestion, but this is the time it is most likely that she needs to pee or poop.

Don’t let food out for the day, there should be 2 (if she is more than a year old, one, if she is less than half, 3) times when she gets food, and if she doesn’t eat it, you should put it away. Don’t worry, in some days she will learn that this is the time to eat, she won’t starve herself.

With only this much information, these are the best advice I can give.

(Btw reinforcing the other dog when she potty outside is a very good thing 🙂 )

Q&A: How long should we use the pee pads?

We are picking up our new Yorkie puppy in 2 days! She is 8 weeks. She’s been using a pee pad in her current home and has done very well, meaning going on the pad exclusively. But this week has pooped a couple of times off the pad and out of the pen area. That’s her history. We want to train her to go outside. My question is do we train her first to use pee pads in our house and then later to switch to outside? And if so how long do you use the pee pads before switching to outside? I’m hoping you say skip the pee pads and just start training her outside right away. This has been an on-going debate in our family of four.~Heather

It is always preferable to train the puppy outside initially so he does not begin a habit of eliminating in the house. To do this you must be willing and able to take the puppy outside frequently throughout the day, ideally after eating meals, for about 20 minutes or until he goes, first thing in the morning and before bedtime. Until the pup gets the idea you will also have to take him out every hour or two. It is helpful to train him to ‘go’ on a newspaper so that he understands more easily what to do. So the first time he goes outside, slip a paper under him when he urinates so it catches some of his odor. Then next time, take the same paper and let him sniff it to get the idea, place it on the ground and keep taking him back to it until he goes on it. This will take patience and you can expect to take up to two weeks for him to really start being reliable about it. Present ‘used’ paper to him at first until he gets the idea. Then gradually reduce the size of the paper until it is no longer needed, Observe your puppy through the day so you get to know his internal schedule of elimination, to avoid mistakes.

Because your puppy has been going on puppy pads, start by placing a paper over the pad and let him use it. Then begin the outdoor training.

Puppies cannot hold their urine as long as grown dogs, so keep this in mind. He may have accidents overnight. Many people keep pups in a comfortable crate overnight as they do not like to soil close quarters. Do not let him wait too long in the morning to go out – it’s worthwhile setting the alarm at the beginning and avoiding mistakes in the house!


Q&A: Help! My Dog is Afraid of Trash Bags!

We have adopted a rescue dog that has obviously been abused in the past. One of her greatest fears is large, black, plastic bags. It makes it difficult to walk her on trash collection days when a number of homes have a big, black bag sitting by the curb. She balks at walking past them. We need to zig zag back and forth across the street to avoid them. What is the best way to teach her that she no longer needs to fear these big, black trash bags? ~Alice

First of all, congratulations on your newest family member, and thank you for adopting a rescue dog! These dogs, regardless of breed, often have unique issues that may take time to overcome. Also, not knowing the dog’s full history can make it difficult to identify potential challenges until they arise, seemingly out of nowhere.

It’s important to remember that the reaction is based on association. Pavlov conditioned his dogs to salivate at the sound of a bell. Similarly, it sounds as if your rescue has a conditioned response to large, black, plastic bags. Fortunately, conditioned responses can often be successfully removed or redirected with patience and consistency.

For this situation, we suggest overcoming the fear in stages.

Begin by purchasing a box of the bags that affect your dog. Place the box on the ground in an area that your dog considers to be a safe location, and allow her to smell, examine, and interact with the box. Observe her reactions, and provide soothing encouragement and treats once she exhibits the behavior you desire. Repeat for several days until you are satisfied with her response.

Next, take out one plastic bag and lay it flat on the floor. Again, allow her to smell it, examine it, and interact with it (safely and under supervision, of course!). The goal is to show her that there is nothing to fear. At the same time, practice walking around the flat trash bag. Put her on the leash and practice walking past it, next to it, and even over it in the safety of your home or yard.

From there, you can progress to filling the bag, then setting up an obstacle course in your yard with several bags. Eventually, you’ll be able to progress to confidently walking the neighborhood on trash day.

Remember that your attitude and reaction are vitally important during walks. You are the alpha dog in her pack, and she will follow your lead. Exude confidence and control, and she will trust you and follow suit. Before you know it, running from trash bags will be a distant memory!

Q&A: How to stop my dog from yapping when she’s excited

dog-jumpingI inherited an eight year old Chihuahua/Poodle mix. She has energy. She likes everyone. She gets so excited when she sees other dogs that she yaps uncontrollably. How can I train her to eliminate this behavior? ~Sally

This is a common behavior issue that many dog owners face. While there  are many people who want a dog who will bark, there are also those who don’t want them to. Barking is like so many dog behaviors, in that there is a time and a place for it to be appropriate and times for dogs to not bark. When a dog starts to bark to the point of them losing control, it’s become an inappropriate action.

To answer this question, first we need to look at some of the reasons why the dogs may react this way. All dogs have what is called a threshold when it comes to stimuli. The threshold basically is the distance the dog needs to be from stimuli to not react. Some dogs can go over threshold when they see another dog at the other end of the block, while others are calm right up until a parade and marching band goes by. Every dog’s threshold is unique, as are the stimuli that push the dog over threshold.

When a dog is pushed over threshold, they typically have three basic reactions. First reaction is to run away or flight. The second one is to try to fight it off, and the third is to freeze in hopes of becoming invisible against the scary thing.  Each dog has different stimuli that will set them off. Some react to fireworks, while others go bonkers at the sight of a rabbit. It sounds like the little dog above is stimulated by other dogs.

Your first step with this problem is to figure out how close the dog can get to  another dog before starting to bark and yap. In the beginning, it may be fairly far away, like across the park or a  few blocks away.  This will not be a problem that goes away quickly and will take lots of dedication from all members of the family. What we are looking for from the dog is a counter emotional response. Right now, her emotional response to seeing another dog is to bark uncontrollably, but we would like for her to sit and wait for the other dog to approach.

Your second step is to set up a successful interaction. Find a friend or dog trainer with a calm and collected dog. Have them hang out in a certain spot, and maybe walk around. This is where being in a park is a good thing, as they can go back and forth. Keep your dog far enough away that she does not go over threshold. It is ok if she notices the other dog. In fact, we want her to, without her barking!

You will need your dog on a leash and collar. No reason to have her on a chain collar. A flat buckle or harness are all you need. When your dog notices the other dog but does not bark, start treating her. You can use whatever kind of treats are very high value for her. Some dogs can be distracted with kibble, but most will need something better, like soft dog treats, small bites of cheese or chicken. As long as she is quiet, keep treating. Right now, the only criteria you have is quiet.

As your dog starts to look at you and not at the other dog, move her forward a bit. If she starts to bark, move back to where she was not barking. Always move her closer to the other dog during training times. The goal here is to set her up for success and not to test her limits. You can keep moving her forward and treat her for calm, quiet, desirable behavior. As she gets to where she can be closer to another dog, you can have your friend bring their dog closer and allow the other dog to sniff yours, as you treat. She is learning that being calm means good things are happening and that she still gets to meet other dogs. The only criteria to ask of your dog is that she is quiet. She doesn’t need to make eye contact or sit. Later, you can add these behaviors in when quiet becomes a default behavior for her.

If she is calm as another dog approaches, she can even be allowed to go off leash and play with the other dog, assuming this is rewarding for her. If not, treats are plenty.  It sounds like she wants to meet other dogs, but many small dogs will bark at other dogs as a defensive tactic. They actually do know how small and vulnerable they are,  but they try to intimidate other dogs to stay away.

Before you get her to this point, it is up to the handler to set her up for success. Are there times of day lots of other people and dogs are walking? Walk at a different time or take a different route. Does she sit in the window and yap? Crate her and don’t allow her to look out the window until she can handle it. Some people even have had great success with putting filmy plastic over their windows so their dogs can’t see out as well.  Finally, she may have learned this behavior out of boredom. A tired dog is a better dog, so lots of walks, training sessions and puzzle toys to help her use her mind. Dogs really do want to please, most just need to be shown how to and that there is value in doing as they are asked.